WOODBRIDGE, Ont. – I can almost hear Mama Perciballi encouraging, "Mangia, mangia!"
She’s trained her son, Romano, well. If he has a fault, it’s that he fills his platters with an overly lavish hand. Even my guest, ever an intrepid trencherman, can’t finish his dinner at Romano’s Classic Italian Cuisine.
Located in an industrial area, this Italian restaurant has an extensive menu including pizza, pasta, and entrees. It’s spacious, comfortable and patently a neighbourhood favourite, since several of the patrons greet the wait staff familiarly. On the other hand, Romano’s sister-in-law, Rina, is so friendly they might have just met and seem like old pals.
While we nibble some fresh slices of Italian bread, I sip a very acceptable (and very full) glass of Boolaroo Shiraz from Australia ($8). There’s a bottle of Chianti on the table, encased in straw (remember when we used to melt candles in the neck of these bottles?). This Chianti is specially imported for the restaurant ($40). My guest opts for a bottle of Heineken ($6), a more fitting accompaniment to his menu tonight.
He starts with calamari, lightly coated with batter and fried with a minimum of oil ($10.95). It comes with a zesty sauce for dipping. “It’s not at all greasy,” he says. “But there’s so much of it.”
Something of a calamari connoisseur, this one is pronounced one of the better versions he’s enjoyed.
I have opted for a starter of spaducci — eight skewers threaded with lamb (actually I have nine on my plate – the bounty continues) — served with a substantial portion of minestra rapini ($15). A specialty of the house, this blend of rapini, romano (what else!) beans, potato cubes and lots of garlic for flavour, is simply delicious. I can’t finish mine but beg a container to take the remainder home. Indeed, had I but known, this ‘antipasto’ would have been more than enough for my main course.
However, we have ordered entrées. My guest is intrigued by potato pizza and decides to give it a try. When a pizza large enough to classify as medium in most chains arrives, he quips, “When are the other six people going to arrive to help me eat this?” A fairly thin, chewy crust is brushed with a thin layer of olive oil and topped with slices of potato, orange, yellow and green peppers, and slices of red onion ($13). “This is incredibly good,” coos my guest. “Why haven’t the pizza chains discovered this yet?” Nonetheless, after consuming two-thirds, he throws in the towel and the waitress arrives with a take-home container.
My Mediterranean salad is mostly romaine unfortunately — it would have benefited from some baby spinach or mesclun to relieve the monotony. This is tossed with radicchio, fresh tomatoes and julienned grilled vegetables — peppers, eggplant, zucchini — and topped with a whole grilled chicken breast ($14). The chicken is succulent and tender and the dressing is slightly sweet balsamic vinaigrette that perfectly complements the toppings. It fills a large deep dish and eating it all is simply out of the question, particularly after my spaducci. Rina insists this too can be taken home.
We eschew dessert, but only because there is none of Romano’s own tiramisu — the only homemade offering on a list that includes crème bruleé cheesecake, molten chocolate cake, carrot cake and crèpes with ice cream. However, they happily brew us a fresh pot of coffee ($1.50). It’s very good too.
Despite its location, this is a spot well worth visiting. From Tuesday to Thursday, they offer “family style” dining with a stagione antipasto selection, choice of pasta platter, choice of entrée platter and a salad bowl, all to serve four people for $69. It has to be the best deal around. Romano wants to go back to traditional Italian family dining — the way mom used to make. Small wonder I can hear her voice: “Eat, eat!”
Romano’s Classic Italian Cuisine, 830 Rowntree Rd. Woodbridge. 905-850-9604. Handicapped accessible (even the washrooms). Visit www.romanoscuisine.com.
